TenPenh: About TenPenh

A Taste of Southeast Asia on the Power Corridor of Washington:
TenPenh Restaurant

The trend over the past five years in Washington, DC has been a wave of contemporary chic restaurants, freshening and enriching the ethnic mix in a city of culturally diverse neighborhoods. That explains why you may find a French bistro opening up next to a Spanish tapas bar, Cuban eatery, or Japanese sushi bar, and, in between, coffeehouses where you can reserve a moment to gather your thoughts for the day. But the strongest influence has been that of Asian cuisine, spawning a number of pan-Asian-styled restaurants. The demand for such a cuisine was already evident in the popularity of the Asian-inspired dishes offered at DC Coast restaurant.

TenPenh is the second venture for the owners of DC Coast and now Ceiba and Acadiana restaurants, as well. Located in the heart of the city at Tenth Street and Pennsylvania Avenue, the upscale southeast-Asian-inspired restaurant opened its doors in July 2000. A Feng Shui Master respectfully directed the owners to follow certain Asian customs and guidelines, and Cliff Wharton, born in the Philippines, was tapped by Chef Tunks to be his Chef de Cuisine.

Searching for culinary ideas as well as a vision for the restaurant's interior, owners Gus DiMillo, David Wizenberg, and Chef Jeff Tunks, and interior designer Walter Gagliano spent three weeks wandering in Bangkok, Singapore, Saigon, and Hong Kong. Their mission was to live and learn traditional and modern Asian approaches to décor, food, and atmosphere. They scoured antique shops looking for artifacts that reflect the unique heritage of each place. The décor of TenPenh fuses contemporary American styling with Asian accents. The windowed façade that faces both Tenth Street and Pennsylvania Avenue displays the restaurant's stylized logo resembling an Emperor's seal. The view from the entrance only slightly prepares the guest for what's inside. Guests are greeted by a hostess dressed in a long, distinctly Asian, silk tunic. The interior room reveals a large abstract painting of an Asian warrior. Custom-made teak chairs and tables fill the space with warm dark woods. A short incline made up of large sand colored stones leads guests past a long curved cabinet, encasing an extensive collection of wines coming from all parts of the world. The cabinet is designed with deep chestnut-colored doors with an interior that glows in a natural bamboo style hue. A few steps further, on your way into the bar and main dining room, there is a semi-private dining room discretely situated in enclosed glass. The glass is etched in a pattern inspired by tiles found at the temple of the reclining Buddha in Bangkok.

The bar is shaped like an Asian gate, covered in antique, mellow gold leaf finishing with hints of warm red under glaze peeking through. The soft lighting is deliberate for nighttime privacy. Given the appeal of the open kitchen at DC Coast, the owners decided to retain that feature at TenPenh. The visible cooking area reminds guests they are in the capable hands of a culinary master.

The design of the restaurant is inspired by Hong Kong's bistro-style restaurants built in the 1930s. The foundation of the design is simple lines and neutral colors with a balance of rich tones coming from the fabric and art. All the fabrics were purchased at the legendary Jim Thompson Company in Bangkok. Tones such as mustard yellow, burnt orange, basil green, pecan brown, and shades of crushed rubies dominate the color scheme. Iridescent fabrics have their place as well, with heavy silk and woven fabrics covering the seats.

The modern designs of Southeast Asia infiltrate the restaurant's tableware. The simplicity of the table setting reflects the relaxed atmosphere generated by the subdued colors, cushy banquette seating, and diffused light. The plates are pale, pale yellow and antique white crackled china dishes with a coupe shape. The flatware is Thai bronze in a contemporary hammered fashion, and a beautiful touch is the knife that duplicates the shape of a traditional Thai sword. Teak-colored chopsticks are offered to those wishing to dine in the customary way. The dishware varies in shapes and sizes, which follows suit with Feng Shui values. Hand-painted china table accents come in shades of jasmine and copper bean, with bronze colored chips and celadon. Bamboo textured round- and squared-shaped table place mats stand in the place of tablecloths. Roughly hewn bronze bowls and plates, holding towels for freshening up before dinner and amuse bouche, are set at each table when guests are seated.

DC diners already appreciated the artistic cooking of Jeff Tunks and his culinary sidekick of eight years, Cliff Wharton, who is Chef de Cuisine of TenPenh. Cliff and his knowledgeable staff prepare refreshingly eclectic dishes and startlingly new sauces. For guests who like their food spicy, TenPenh's appetizers and entrees can be seasoned to bring a flush of perspiration to the diner's brow. Try the Wok-seared Spicy Calamari Salad. To make things spicier, diners can try the sweet chile accompaniment at the table.

For a gentler start, share the Shrimp and Pork Spring Rolls with three varied dipping sauces. Signature dishes include Crispy Whole Fish with Cucumber Salad and Tamarind Dipping Sauce; Szechuan Greens Beans; and Red Thai Curry Shrimp (a traditional curry from South Vietnam) with Golden Pineapple and Jasmine Rice. Traditional meat-eaters who enjoy a succulent steak should not overlook the Five Spice Chili Tea Rubbed Beef Tenderloin with Kimchee-Noodle Cake, Korean Chili Hollandaise.

Ten Penh's devotees will have more than one excuse to come back again and again once they experience the desserts of Pastry Chef Norman Messer. Warm Upside-down Banana Cake with Coconut & Rum Panna Cotta, Star Anise Butterscotch and his Saigon Cinnamon Sugar Dusted Donuts have guests asking for seconds.

Some would say the proliferation of Asian-inspired restaurants is a trend. However, the intentions of the owners of TenPenh are anything but ephemeral. Chef Tunks sums this up nicely: "All I'm doing is cooking in the same format I've always followed. I've taken good solid French-based techniques, seasonal foods, and added indigenous ingredients from Thailand, Vietnam, China, The Philippines, Malaysia, and Japan. The result is a great restaurant called TenPenh. I would define the cuisine as Asian-Pacific inspired Contemporary Cuisine."